Oily skin—is it a curse or a blessing?

Now is the time of year when skin moisture changes with the warmer, more humid weather.  If you have oily skin, it becomes more pronounced.  Most individuals with oily skin usually have acne too since the pores are clogging and the sebaceous matter has nowhere to go thus building large pores, blackheads, acne papules and pustules. Men also have increased oil production, due to male hormones increasing sebaceous activity, oiliness and blackheads.   But oily skin is not all bad news. Usually individuals with oilier skin tend to age slower or show the signs slower.  Their skin is usually less sensitive as well.  Most importantly, dry skin is more sensitive and shows signs of aging and tends to get more sun damage. More good news—the new and greatest cosmeceuticals, anti-aging and anti-acne products available tend to work best with oily skin. Those with oily skin can get their acne under control, prevent future breakouts and heal current lesions and scars.  Oily skin can tolerate the glycolic acid treatments too. Whether in office or at home, these products work on all skin types. The percentage of glycolic acid used (an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane and used in advanced skin care and medical grade products) can also be increased at a faster rate thus offering improved results for both acne and aging. The moral of the story is if you do have acne, use good anti-aging substances such as glycolic acid peels and products with advanced vitamin therapies such as Clinage. These will help treat both acne and oily skin and slow down aging and jump start repair.  Keep on looking like the youngest at your high school reunions.  It’s truly possible to slow the aging process, reverse it with treatment and keep acne under control.

Your oily skin may just be an added blessing!

Can we all have beautiful skin no matter what we start out with?

Can we all have beautiful skin no matter what we start out with? The answer is yes! I would like to share a few tips that have kept me young and vibrate and fight aging and acne.  I feel qualified as I am in the cosmeceutical business and was raised in dermatology and plastic surgery all my life.  First and foremost—stay out of the sun and tanning booths—they result in 85 percent of aging and skin cancer. Next, munch regularly on anti-aging antioxidant pigmented vegetables and fruits as well as heavy Omega 3's and low glycemic foods such as olive oil.  Never starve—just eat the right stuff. Keep hydrated internally and externally. We all know to drink water but using anti-aging products and moisturizers helps increase our skin’s capacity to retain moisture. Use a true cosmeceutical such as Clinage and regularly apply an anti-aging skin regime, which includes glycolic acid and vitamins. The right substances and concentrations will work on getting and keeping your skin healthy. Start off each day with a gentle glycolic exfoliation, no granules. Now your skin can breathe and allow other active substances to penetrate. Use glycolic acid substances each week in the form of creams and lotions. This will help keep your collagen count up and skin pigmentation and evenness under control.  You can go for professional glycolic peel treatments or you can do versions at home in between. Clinage offers a wonderful at-home peel kit too. (Visit www.clinage.com) Use Vitamin C topically in the form of Magnesium C to penetrate and keep collagen up, skin pigment even and rosacea under control. This will even tackle pesky puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. Use other vitamin containing products such as Vitamin A for elasticity and pore clogging prevention, as well as a great antioxidant from the elements.  Niacinamide is another great vitamin to help with ours skin’s immunity pigmentation management. Never give up—keep your skin as healthy as you can. You can reduce aging and even control acne simultaneously. It only gets better.  Look at your friends who have been doing the right things and you’ll see a huge difference.  Start now. Until next time…….

Dark spots or uneven skin tone?

Why do some of us have problems with dark spots or uneven skin tone?  Certainly, all of us—at any age and skin type—are candidates for these annoying problems.  The origin is the layer of the skin containing pigment cells, known as melanocytes. 

We all have them but some skin types have more or less pigment. This is a genetic.  The more pigment cells we have in this living layer, the more chance for darker, longer-term pigment. 

Numerous things stimulate these cells to become active and surface to the top, creating patches, spots and waves of uneven pigment. 

The most common culprit is the sun.  Sunlight causes melanocytes in all skin types to become hyperactive and inflammatory and patch up to the surface.  Melanocytes are pigment-producing cells found mainly in the epidermis.

Many know this to be called age spots or sun spots. They are usually in the areas where there has been excessive sun exposure such as the neck up, elbows down, face or hyper exposed areas. Just check out the areas that have not been exposed and there is your proof.

There are other reasons as well for pigment cells to become active. Skin injuries may be the cause, ranging from an acne spot to a burn to excessive scratching and cuts.  Luckily, our pigment cells come to the rescue (of injury) and can remain for months. The darker the skin type, the darker the pigment remaining and the harder to get rid of it. 

Other causes are hormonal. This can be known as pregnancy mask and is also seen on woman taking birth control pills. There are some other medications that will also cause pigment issues, most of which improve with reduction of the hormone or medication.

Now what to do! The conventional approach of many decades has been bleaching agents containing thyroxin. The percentages range from over-the-counter to prescription doses.  The problem is the potential for irritation and over usage. 

One of the best ways to treat this is with glycolic acid treatments and products such as Clinage.  The agents and molecules work to break up the pigment cells regardless of skin type and cause and are easy to use ranging from creams, gels, glycolic peels and treatments.  Always be careful not to combine active bleaching agents with glycolic agents without professional guidance. 

Another great treatment is the use of Vitamin C in a special form called Magnesium C, which does not oxidize as quickly and has a more neutral pH. Topical Vitamin C works to decrease the inflammation of the pigment cells and helps heal areas from acne and other injury. 

Niacinamide also has been known to work on this living skin layer to help with the immune system, injury and therefore pigment treatment.  Niacinamide comes in the form of creams. Eye creams tackle dark circles. Use serums for your face or anywhere else on the body to treat pesky dark spots and age spots.

Always be aware of potential bad moles or melanomas stimulated by the sun.  Go for your yearly body checks and be on the lookout for any new freckles or moles. Watch for changes in size, color, symmetry, especially areas exposed to the sun or have suffered a sunburn. 

Melanoma is increasingly the cause of death of young adults and is completely curable if caught early. Pay attention. I sincerely welcome this opportunity I have to communicate this to you.

Until next time……

Is it dry skin or is it a skin condition?

This is the season for dry skin. Many will wonder if it is more than just dry, cold weather causing flakiness and itching. One of the most common reasons to go to a dermatologist is for a condition called dermatitis.  This is a very broad term but mainly describes dry, irritated red itchy skin usually localized in patches. It is stubborn and does not go away on its own.  One of the most common times of year for dermatitis to lurk is during the cold dry winter and seasonal allergy months.  These factors can spur on an underlying condition, which can be of a hereditary form.  Another name for dry skin, often starting in childhood and sometimes later in life is eczema. Your skin can also be sensitive to many irritants ranging from chemicals, dyes, pollens, wool, foods, medications, mechanical irritation and repetitive washing of hands and body to the point of dryness.  Once dermatitis is diagnosed, it usually has to be addressed with some type of therapy. The first step is the removal of the irritants or agents if possible. Then you should refrain from actions causing extreme dryness such as excessive hand washing in a job setting. Of course, you must still wash your hands. Be sure to protect your skin from direct contact of the substances causing the irritation.  Of course, moisture needs to be added to the skin in the form of soothing creams and lotions containing non-irritating substances.  A tepid bath soak, never hot, followed by a soothing healing lotion while the body is still wet is helpful.  Some people will seal in the moisture by wearing cotton gloves or clothing after applying lotion. If the condition does not go away and persists over years, it may be an atopic situation. This is the person who is likely allergic to medications, bee stings, nickel, pollens, dyes and chemicals.  If this is the case, it is chronic and not curable but can be controlled.  Many people notice in changing in environment they get either better or worse.  For example, a trip to the ocean could result in a clearing. However, a visit to a dry, cold environment or a region with heavy pollens such as ragweed and allergens could worsen the skin. The good news is that nothing is wrong internally and the majority of the time it is not associated with rare, internal diseases.  Most dermatologists will prescribe a cortisone cream for flare-ups, to be used topically and internally if severe.  Long term use can be a problem so determining the causes and keeping the skin moist with smooth, soothing creams and lotions such as Clinage will help significantly. When it comes to anti-aging and anti-acne clients, be prudent and evaluate what to use.  Most anti-aging and anti-acne substances such as Retin A and glycolic acid may be too irritating. However, vitamins such as Vitamins A and E, serums, niacinamide creams and mists containing minerals and vitamins with green tea are vey helpful in healing the skin and give skin the continuous moisture it needs. If a persistent rash does not go away and affects your daily functioning, see a dermatologist. Remember to always get a skin check while you’re there for any odd growths or changing moles to detect skin cancer or melanoma.  Both are curable if caught early. Until next time…..

Rosacea

Some call it rosacea. It is also known as hormonal acne.  Rosacea is an inflammation of the superficial blood vessels, many times resulting in acne.  Rosacea is hereditary and dietary related.  Acidic foods, spicy favorites, dairy and red wine can make it worse. Rosacea acne, as it relates in later years, can be associated with change in hormones with menopause.  Not all women get this condition and it’s best treated with a light acne peel and vitamins A, retinyl palmitate, Vitamin C, Mag C (for taking down inflammation and assisting in the healing of lesions and dark spots) and niacinamide, an antibacterial, immune boosting healing property. The real issue—most acne has a hormonal component no matter your age. Rosacea should be treated with diet and also plenty of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phospate (MAP) to keep down inflammation.  Light, glycolic abrasion free cleansers are recommended for a daily regime no matter what the age or cause of the acne.  Regular light peels, such as Clinage’s glycolic peel kit works well and prevents new lesions from forming. It also helps to remove the top, dead layer which clogs pores. The best news? Glycolic peels have the capacity to fill in acne scars with your own collagen and correct the pigmentation after inflammation.  Stress plays a big part in all acne at any age.  Meditation and yoga are helpful as well as a diet rich in antioxidant fruits and vegetables.  Remember, the more pigmented and colorful the better. Spinach, dark green and red peppers, broccoli and dark berries are also high in Vitamin A. And don’t forget to eat your carrots. Acne is chronic and not curable but it certainly is clearable and controllable with the right treatments. Until next time……

Hormonal acne…what exactly is it?

The terrible acne age begins when puberty hits. Our sebaceous glands overact and the hair follicles build up bacteria, causing acne lesions and papules or pustules. 

Large acne cysts are usually caused by hormone changes from puberty. Females and males also respond to hormones from stress throughout life called DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone.) It’s a precursor to male hormones secreted by the adrenal gland located above the kidneys. 

Women will notice more break out before menses with the surge in female hormones right before menstruation starts. There is a definite hereditary component to all acne, especially severe acne in the cystic form. 

Generally acne is treated with both topical and oral antibiotics as well as treatments to decrease inflammation such as anti-inflammatory injections and liquid nitrogen to destroy a lesion.

Today acne is wonderfully treated with our miracle substance—glycolic acid, which removes the clogging top layer. Clinage carries a wonderful product. The follicle is unroofed and disinfected without destroying the skin. The treatments can be topical or deeper peel treatments for in office or spa use. 

After using glycolic substances first, all other substances applied will work and penetrate much better such as topical antibiotics and Vitamins A, C and Niacinamide. 

Next time we will tackle how adult acne is and how it is different from hormonal acne.

What can take the place of microdermabrasion and why?

The easy answer-- a special natural substance called glycolic acid, which is derived from sugar cane. It’s effective, safe, non-toxic, easy-to-use and versatile.

Microdermabrasion is a rigorous form of mechanical exfoliation.  Micro particles are dispersed into the skin surface to topically abrade the surface’s dead skin layer. Machines utilize suction to remove the particles.  Different non-toxic particles can also be used.  The top dead layer, the stratum corneum is removed and the pores are cleaned out.  It puts stress on superficial blood vessels with its abrasive nature and suctioning. However, to the naked eye one may not see the surface injury.  Some look at this as a benefit to stimulate cell growth.  Any low pH or acidic products will burn the skin. Most anti-aging substances tend to have a lower pH so this can be a problem with advanced skin injury possibly leading to scabbing and hyperpigmentation.

There is a much easier alternative, which can be used at home and daily. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane is a key anti-aging and anti-acne alternative. It’s the number one substance used in advanced medical skin care today.  

If a cleanser carries enough of this active ingredient and a gentle massage is used simultaneously to the skin surface, the dead layer will merely melt away. 

The bond that holds the cells together breaks apart and the tiny glycolic molecules go into the pores and unroofs oil, sebum and dead skin cells

thus leaving the skin smooth and radiant with pores clean, clear and refined.  Acne breakouts are reduced as oil production is controlled.  

Glycolic acid is also contained in lotions, gels, and home glycolic peels which are now available to the public. Another benefit—the skin’s surface is not injured with this daily cleanser.

These products, such as Clinage’s are diverse and allow for different percentages.  They are available to the public as at- home glycolic peels with special ingredients to enhance cellular changes and encourages collagen building with an increase in elasticity, refined pores, lightened pigmentation and dark spots.

The cost is minimal compared to expensive doctor visits or other treatments available. So seriously consider the easiest, most effective approach to new skin. 

Additionally, these products and treatments, good for men and women, are safe to use on all skin types from fair to dark skin, from sensitive to oily skin. Stop aging, clear acne and keep your skin maintained each day. You are certainly worth it. 

Until next time……